Early Spring News Late March 2017
SHIPPING WILL BEGIN LATE APRIL (weather permitting)
The catalog is at the printer and should be shipped out any day now! We've included most everybody from the past 3 years. If you don't get a catalog by early April, contact us and we'll send you one.
Happy New Year
Jan 06, 2017
Happy New Year, the days are getting longer, each day bit more than the day before all the way to June 21. Theres lots of work going into the website. Updated images, added information on many of the cultivars and of course new cultivars..
Daylilies blooming at the end of September
Sep 29, 2016
Well we've had some frosts, the Pumpkin and Squash plants are done. But amazingly there are plenty of daylilies still blooming. These will keep going into October, though cold nights will slow opening of the flowers. Once we get there hard killing frost, that will pretty much finish the last of the daylilies.
September 8 2016
Sep 08, 2016
The bulk of the daylilies are finished blooming. but there a several dozen very lates still going strong. There is some exciting rebloom as well particularly on From Darkness Comes Light (Huben) a pale yellow with a pigmented scape!
Campanula latifolia x2
Lobelia silphilitica alba
Helenium aromaticum (Pinapples): small yellow globe shaped blossom clusters, fragrant
Tree Basil ?seeds?
Veronica, Tall Blue: 3′ tall and as you can see develops many spikes of flowers
Iris ensata: Gekkiken, squat pods, bed 20
Iris ensata: bamboo beds
Aruncus hybrid bed 17 short/med ht
Aruncus med ht, shade edge
Aruncus:Fall Red Stem
CSD Big Leaf Hosta (behind Blueberries)
CSD Big Leaf Hosta: wood edge bed 14-18
Low small Hosta (behind Blueberries)
Yellow Splash rim
Morning glory 2015
Mustard: purple leafed
Nicotina rustic: tiny flowers
Cosmos 'Sensation Purity' 4′ tall with lacy foliage
Cosmos 'Sensation Pink’: 4′ tall with lacy foliage
Cosmos 'Daydream’: light pink with a glowing inner deeper pink ring
Double Click Cranberries Cosmos
Tango Cosmos Cosmos
Coreopsis tictoria 'Mahogany Midget'
Centratherum intermedium 'Pineapple Sangria' (Brazilian Button Flower)
Calendula 'Neon’: The petals of these fully double flowers are orange and tipped in burgundy
Isotoma axillaris (Blue Star Creeper): delicate foliage and lavender blue star shaped flowers.
Ipomoea lobata (aka Mina lobata (Spanish Flag aka Firecracker Vine) 10’
Marigold 'Lemon Gem' Tagetes signata/Tagetes Tenuifolia
Marigold 'Paprika' single red blooms edged in gold.
Marigold 'Red Cherry: Tagetes signata/Tagetes Tenuifolia double mahogany
Marigold 'Harlequin’: red and yellow striped, 2-3’
Marigold 'Crackerjack Mix’:big double flowers in various shades of yellow & orange 30”
Marigold 'Burning Embers' :single red flowers rimmed in gold. 2′ tall.
Salvia coccinea (Texas/Scarlet Sage): original native American species 2-4’
Tithonia rotundifolia 'Torch’: 5’
Rehmannia elata (Chinese Foxglove): Z7, 3’, runs
State Fair Mix Zinnias
Misc Online Sources
Wild Arugula aka Sylvetta
Arugula ‘Slow Bolt'
Bean 'Willow Leaf' pole Lima
Squash 'Tatume' C. pepo: Summer Squash: ‘Calabacita’, native of Meso-America
Squash 'Round Zucchini' (C. pepo)
Lettuce 'Buttercrunch’: Boston/bibb type lettuce
Lettuce 'Lolla Rossa Darkness’:very frilly deep dark red variety.
Lettuce 'New Red Fire’:The leaves are green at the base and rest is a deep red
Lettuce 'Rouge D'Hiver’: Maroon leaved romaine (cos) lettuce is a French heirloom
Pepper'Midnight’: very dk purple, almost black foliage and upright small cones
Pepper, hot 'Jigsaw’: Beautiful tricolor variegated foliage, purple stems & flowers, small dark purple oval fruit that turn red when ripe.
Perilla frutescens nankinensis laciniata purple (PURPLE SHISO): frilly dark red/purple leaves
Papalo: Summer Cilantro (Porophyllum ruderale) Papalo is in the aster family growing about 5′ even even in pots. it does not bolt. It will not flower or make seeds in short season climates. AKA Papaloquelite and Bolivian Coriander.
Garlic 'Nia~wanda Park'
Pennisetum glaucum 'Purple Majesty OP' (Ornamental Purple Millet)
Papaver somniferum Mix (Annual Poppies)
Verbena bonariensis (Verbena-on-a-Stick): 2″ lilac flower, 36-48″ tall thin stems
Zinnia 'Burpeeana Giants Mix’: cactus dahlia type blooms 6″, wide range of colors. to 2′.
Browallia americana: purple-blue flowers all summer til frost. 2′ tall wonderful airy feel
Snapdragon 'Brighton Rock’: variably colored and striped snapdragon mix.
Provider Bush Green Beans
Velour Bush Haricots Verts
Fortex Pole Beans
Purple Podded Pole Beans
Magnificenza OG Muskmelons
Telegraph Improved European Long-Fruited Cucumbers
Eight Ball Zucchini
Jade Dragon Bitter Melon
Table Queen Acorn Winter Squash
Sweet Dumpling Dumpling
Sunshine Buttercup/Kabocha Winter Squash
Baby Blue Hubbard Hubbard Winter Squash
Burpees Butterbush OG Butternut Winter Squash
New England Pie Pumpkins
Early Wonder Tall Top Beets
Red Ace OG Beets
Champion Summer Radishes
Cheriette Summer Radishes
Caucasian Mountain Spinach Caucasian Mountain Spinach
New Zealand Spinach New Zealand Spinach
Green Deer Tongue OG Leaf Lettuce
De Morges Braun OG Leaf Lettuce
Dark Lollo Rossa OG Cutting Lettuce
Tom Thumb Butterhead Lettuce
Winter Marvel OG Butterhead Lettuce
Red-Eared Butterheart OG Butterhead Lettuce
Pablo Batavian Lettuce
Anuenue OG Batavian Lettuce
Red Iceberg Crisphead Lettuce
Perpetual Spinach Chard
Bright Lights Chard
Red Shiso Shiso
Hestia Brussels Sprouts
Gustus Brussels Sprouts
Scarlet OG Kale
Afina Cutting Celery Celery
Long Red Narrow Cayenne Hot Peppers
Thai Hot OG Hot Peppers
Hinkelhatz OG Hot Peppers
Bellstar OG Paste Tomatoes
Jasper OG Cherry Tomatoes
Sweet Treats Cherry Tomatoes
Juliet Grape Tomatoes
Caribe OG Cilantro
Sweet Annie OG Sweet Annie
Angels Trumpet White Seeds: Brugmansia suaveolens 'White' , fragrant z 9-1 Basil Green Globe Seeds : refinement of bush basil from Italy where the variety is known as Finissimo Verde a Palla
Basil Red Genovese Seeds : First purple-leaf Genovese! As far as we know this is the first purple leaf basil of the Genovese type.
Cowslip Seeds: Primula veris
Gojiberry Black Seeds: Tibetan gojiberry; Hei guo gou qi) A promising superfood! A little known species of gojiberry with amazing health potential. The black berries are very rich in oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), a class of compounds that is thought to give red wine, grape seeds and blueberries their powerful antioxidant effects. They are also rich in vitamins A, C and E.
Jujube Chinese Seeds: Zizyphus spinosa, Hardy bush or small tree
Lobelia Red Seeds: Red Lobelia: Lobelia cardinalis
Maralroot Seeds: Leuzea carthamoides 'Lujza' , Siberian perennial with remarkable metabolic and tonic effects
Oxlip Seeds: Primula elatior
Pepicha Seeds: Porophyllum tagetoides, Mexican herb like cilantro but ten times so
Pomegranate Dwarf Seeds: Punica granatum 'Nana'
Savory Winter Carpet Seeds : Satureja montana illyrica, a form of winter savory from the Carpathian Mountains of Europe.
Savory Winter Lemon Seeds : Satureja montana citriodora, clean lemon scent of all its own.
Senega Chinese Seeds : Polygala tenuifolia, hardy in zones 2-9, Siberian milkwort
Tamarind Seeds: Tamarindus indica
Gojiberry Shanghai Express Seeds: Lycium barbarum 'Shanghai Express' , produces red gojiberries the first year
Gojiberry Bulk Seeds: Lycium barbarum, Chinese culinary and medicinal herb
Zhi Mu Seeds: Anemarrhena asphodeloides
Groundcherry Peruvian Seeds: Physalis peruviana
Spinach Red Malabar Seeds:Basella alba, (Rubra) Red-stemmed variety. Edible and highly ornamental.
Swiss Chard Rainbow:
Tomatillo Purple de Milpa: Physalis philadelphica 'Purple de Milpa’, Fruits are large, up to 5cm/2" across
Tomatillo Cossack Pineapple: Physalis pubescens 'Cossack Pineapple' , Not a true tomatillo as one would find in Mexico but a close relative grown in the Ukraine
Tomato Liliput Seeds : Heirloom native from Brazil. Not commercially cultivated. Sweet tiny tomatoes.
Olallie Seeds (2016-2015)
Bouquet Dill (15)
Dark green Italian Parsley (15)
Sweet Basil (16)
Round Midnight Purple Basil (16)
Purple Ruffles Basil (16) #
Scarlet Nantes Carrot (15)
Rumba Carrot (15)
Napoli Carrot (15)
Super Beefsteak (13)
Principe Borghese (16)
Blue Beech (15)
Pruden’s Purple (15)
Black Prince (15)
San Marzano (14)
Nicotiana bigalovii v. quadrivalvis
Purple Leaf Mustard (Olallie)
Osaka Purple Mustard
Red Shiso (Perilla frutiscens)
Veronica longifolia pink
Campanula punctuate hondoensis
Falstaff Red Brussels Sprouts
Purple Peacock Broccoli
Green King Broccoli
Happy Rich mini Broccoli
Long Red Narrow Cayenne
New Ace Sweet
Haitian Red (Eco)
White Bullet (Eco)
Sante Fe (Eco)
Steve’s Little Kicker (Eco)
Cayenne Long Slim (Eco)
Royal Purple (JL)
Habenero White (JL)
Jalapeno Purple (JL)
Slik Pic Summer Squash
Sweet Reba Acorn Squash
Eastern Rise Winter Squash
Blue Coco Pole Bean
Red Noodle Yard Long
Baltisk Purple Kale
Nero De Tuscana Lacinato kale
Potted Perennials Starts 2017
These plants were overwintered here at Olallie, Moved in 4" squares and grown on. Available May 1.
All plants are $4.00 shipped bareroot and wrapped in plastic to retain soil and moisture. Contact us if interested in either shipment or pickup of plants.
Alpine Foxglove Digitalis lutea : Perennial with tiny pale straw yellow flowers, very cute. Quite hardy here in Vermont.
Echinacea purpurea : Classic Purple Coneflower. Plant in drifts and watch the butterflies come!
Campanula punctata hondoensis : Short rhizomatous running plants with flowers of white tubular bells and red tints. We've grown it before and was quite manageable here in Vermont.
Aquilegia purple : From plants growing here for years. Consistent purple color and relatively long lived, hardier type?
Veronica longifolia pink : Very tall pink spires. From outside seed source. Haven't seen these yet but V. longifolia is a great plant, big enough to compete well, and the foliage is a glossy green that always looks healthy.
Malva alba : White Mallow flowers, very
finely incised foliage. Hardy here in Vermont. This plant pops up here and there here on the farm in Vermont. Grows to 3 feet but tends to sprawl too.
Adenaphora : Campanula relative, will naturalize. From and outside source (locally collected). These are typically found growing in cracks of sidewalks and retaining walls. It meay prefer a drier location. Will seed in I expect.
Rose Milkweed : coming....
Beautiful foliage early on, spectacular blooms and interesting brown seed pods. Can flop a bit at the end of the season.
Iris ensata : Iris ensata mix from Olallie. Japanese Iris from various plants growing here at Olallie in Vermont. There is variation in height and color . Typically blues and purples predominate, but white and mixed colors can appear too. Soil needs to be on the acidic side.
Mentha : Mint. Contact Us
Queen Annes Lace : 2nd year for these plants. They are biennials and so will bloom this year. Carrot ancestor, smells like a carrot, and is favorite fodder for Swallowtail Butterflies.
Catnip : The classic Cat favorite. From plants here on the farm: Contact Us
Campanula trachelium : A vigorous seeder that pops up everywhere in mixed colors. Very adapable, sun or shade. colors really vary, even on the same plant.
Sedum mix : Low growing cascading types, for rockwalls and containers
Digitalis obscura : Unusual red flowered perennial from Spain Zone 4. second year growing this plant, have yet to see it bloom. Contact Us.
Fragaria Regent : Larger fruited Alpine Strawberries, which are non running. Fruit is still quite small compare to store bought commercial varieties.
The whole process of preparing daylilies from growing to shipping is a small family hands on process. Each plant is carefully dug, tagged, washed, cut and packed by hand.
David divides clumps of daylilies, preparing them for rowing out. The daylilies we grow are planted in freshly tilled heavy-composted soil.
Jasper selects a daylily from several rows of miniature cultivars.
After selecting a plant suitable for digging, Jasper carefully digs and divides a saleable size piece on the spot.
Our daylily tags are simple but they are easy to read and wont rot or washoff before they get to their destination.
Just Out of the Ground
This A sized piece has 4 fans and a large healthy root system. These plants were just dug and washed
This B sized piece is a little smaller than the A size but it will increase quickly and produce excellent bloom by next year (many B sized piece will bloom the first year).
Next the daylilies are cut back. This may seem detrimental but we always cut our daylilies back when we transplant them and it makes shipping easier and cheaper (for everyone).
Finally the daylilies are individually washed. By removing most of the soil we further reduce the weight and ensure a clean healthy plant. The washing also helps to thoroughly moisten the plants before shipping.
Packing The Order
Lastly the plants go into their shipping box. The daylilies are carefully placed between layers of paper. This helps keep them moist but also allows for some air movement reducing molding.
We always are sure to get plants dug, labeled, washed and packed quickly. Plants are generally out of the ground for only part of a day before being packed for shipping. Plants are shipped out the afternoon of the same day they are dug.
Questions about Propagating Daylilies
I have some older daylilies that need dividing. How do you divide a daylily?
The easiest way we've found is to dig up the clump by digging 8-12" from the crown all the way around and lifting it out.If the clump is very large and heavy you may want to just roll it out of its hole. Shake off the soil. Lay the clump on its side and gently pry off pieces using a weeding fork. David Stevens Rolls a large daylily clump out of the ground in preparation for dividing. Once the soil is off, the daylily clump is pried apart. Dividing A Daylily Step by Step
Can I Raise Daylilies from Seed?
Raising daylilies from seed is relatively easy. Remember though that anything you raise from seed will be different than the parent sometimes much different, you can get an orange daylily from a pink parent or only slightly different a light yellow from a yellow.
After crossing a daylily you should get seed pods forming, green squat pods. When the pods begin to turn brown and crack collect the seeds, they should be black not brown or white. Now you have two choices. My way: I put the seeds in a paper envelope and store the seeds in a cool dry place until late winter. Next I put the seeds in between wet paper towels in an aluminum pie plate place inside a plastic bag and refrigerate for 3-4 weeks. Then I plant the seeds in flats or pots and grow them in my greenhouse to plant out later.
From such tiny seedlings, great plants can grow!
Newly sprouted daylilies seedlings, fine hair roots have grown, but the seed coat is still attached.
My Grandfather's way: My grandfather lived in Maryland. He planted his seeds in rows directly in the ground in the fall. However he fumigated the soil first to kill all weeds. If you plant in the ground weeds may grow faster than the daylilies. Lastly remember that it may take 2-3 years for the daylilies to bloom. But there is nothing more exciting than seeing your seedling bloom for the first time!
Daylily seedlings in the greenhouse
My Daylily stems have little leaves growing on them they look like miniature Daylilies. What are they?
They are called Proliferations and they are like the extra plants the Spider plant houseplant produces. Treat proliferations just like rooted cuttings. Putting them in a pot with sand is a good approach. They should produce roots quite quickly. However because they don't develop a large root system before fall, they need extra protection to get through he winter. They also need to go dormant, so they should be kept in a protected spot like an unheated garage.
When do I plant?
You can plant daylilies any time in the growing season, in our area about late April through mid October. The most important consideration is giving the plants 3-4 weeks to establish before a hard freeze. Many people choose to transplant during the spring or early fall, allowing the plants ample time to establish themselves before the next blooming season. Generally spring plantings are best because the plants have just begun to grow, the weather is cool and moist and they will have plenty of time to establish before winter. Daylilies are able to withstand being planted during the heat of summer as well however they will take some time to recover and may not bloom that season.
Keep in mind that as daylilies are perennials you are planting for next year and the years to come and so will get more blooms with each successive year.
How much sun does a daylily need?
The amount of bloom is proportional to the amount of sun. In other words, the more sun the more blooms; but daylilies will grow in any light condition. A half day of afternoon sun is almost as good as a full day of sun. When choosing a location for them, consider how much of the day they would have direct sunlight. The midday and early afternoon sun is the strongest, but morning sun is usually adequate for a good show.
What kind of soil is best for daylilies?
Almost any soil will grow daylilies, but the better the soil the better the performance. Soil should be friable and humus rich with a balanced pH. Use compost for soil amendments and lightly fertilize occasionally, at least every spring.
How do I plant a Daylily?
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
When planting a daylily, it is advantageous to the plant to spread the roots out in the hole, as shown above
A newly planted daylily with a slight depression for water retention
Do daylilies need to be watered?
Dr. Darrow used to say that water is the best fertilizer for daylilies. While, you can't beat compost for nutrient and soil value, consider giving daylilies water on a regular basis to enhance their growth and aid in a longer season of bloom. We frequently use a soaker hose on newly planted daylilies. Soaker hoses are a nice gentle way of watering plants efficiently.
Do I need to weed my daylilies?
'Time consuming' and 'tiresome' is words often used to describe weeding. But far better than chemical herbicide weed killers, hand weeding directly leads to improved health of your garden. By churning in the organic matter decaying at the top layer, nutrients are added to the soil. By removing the 'weeds' by hand, wildflowers and legumes can be selectively left to enhance the beauty and health of the soil. And of course mulching helps reduce the need for weeding and helps conserve water.
How do I mulch my Daylilies?
We are strong advocates of mulch. Besides helping to keep weeds in check, mulch aids in soil moisture retention and displays the plants nicely. We mulch with a composted manure layer, and then add a top layer of hay or sawdust. The compost acts as a fertilizing soil amendment, working its way down to the roots of the plants.
Mulch as needed up to 3" deep, anytime during the growing season. Be sure not to bury the crowns of the plants with mulch. Leave a 2" mulch-free depression around the base of each plant for breathing room.
What is your opinion about different kinds of Mulches?
Its best to avoid peat moss as top mulch because it can form a layer, which can act as a water shedding mat.
Grass clippings are great! Mostly weed seed free they will also provide a little nutrients as well
Hay and Straw:
Hay and straw are good mulches and are widely available. Ideally, seed-free straw should be used.
Coco mulch and Shredded bark:
Coco mulch and shredded bark are decorative, but will not easily break down, and so are less beneficial to the soil. These mulches are better for permanent plantings. Also they can be quite expensive unless bought in bulk.
Raked leaves are fine but don't have much in the way of nutrients.
Avoid wood chips and sawdust that may be mixed into the soil as they deplete the soil of nitrogen and will cause problems.
Do I need to fertilize my Daylilies?
One of the great things about Daylilies is they are not heavy feeders. In others words they don't need a lot of fertilizer. However fertilizing your plants to supply nutrients that they are in short supply of will only help them to grow better. The fertilizer requirements of each soil are different, so ideally you should have your soil tested to determine the nutrients required. We feel safe recommending the inclusion of good compost into the planting hole and a dose of 10-10-10 or such several weeks after planting. Remember over fertilizing can result in large amounts of leaf growth with little or no bloom and sometimes muddying of the reds. Err on the side of moderation when fertilizing any plant.
If I move my daylilies will they bloom?
A clump of daylilies can be moved early in the spring and will usually bloom that year almost as if nothing had happened. Daylilies can also be moved while in bloom if treated with care and watered in well.
What do I do when the leaves have turned brown in the fall?
Nothing. We leave the foliage until spring, when it easily comes away with a rake. The foliage acts as natural winter mulch, protecting the new shoots during the late winter freezing and thawing. If you prefer to remove the dead foliage, mulch with straw or other light material . Heavy mulch should be removed in early spring.
Do I need to groom or clean up the foliage of my daylilies?
In general you will find that there are yellow parts to leaves and spent flowering stems (scapes). Any part of the plant that is yellow or brown can be removed if desired. Any green part of the leaves should be left even if one half is yellow. However it is not necessary to ever remove any part of a daylily. And yellow leaves do not mean a plant is unhealthy.
Generally there is dead foliage at the base of the plant that can be removed if desired.
During this time if desired spent scopes can be removed to clean up the appearance of a garden particularly if it is a formal display garden.
Leaves should be left on the plants until they are all yellow or brown even a small amount of green on a leaf is providing some nutrients to a plant.
Dead brown foliage can be cleaned up from around the clumps. Removal of this material is not necessary. We always leave the dead leaves around the base of the plants, we figure it acts as a bit of mulch to help protect the plant and keep a few weeds from growing. However for a number of years we did clean up our foliage in the late fall and encountered NO problems from doing this.
How do you keep the deer from eating your flowers?
Our four Border Collies have been trained to keep the deer out of our fields. When they were young we would walk the perimeter of the fields and teach the dogs not to stray (not an easy feat). Now they keep the deer out all day and night. They also don't run off, stay out of garden beds and play Frisbee with visitors in the summer.
If you dont have dogs there are some commercial sprays on the market that may help to prevent deer damage. Remember though, you may have to reapply the spray after rain or overhead watering.
Fortunately deer damage is mostly aggravating to homeowners but will not kill the daylilies
Other options include:Deterrent Sprays, such as Liquid Fence are organic sprays that smell bad
Flashing objects, such as old CD's or Pie Plates on string
Scented Soap, sliced and put around base of plant
Music: an old radio tuned to a talk radio show.
Keep in mind that almost nothing will work if the deer are desperate for food.
Will I have problems with any pests on my Daylilies?
Pests: Japanese Beetles, Rose Chafers, Spotted Lily Beetles and other common garden pests do not bother daylilies
Here are some of the pests you might encounter when growing Daylilies
Insects: Daylilies are amazingly insect pest resistant. There are some instances of aphid or spider mite infestations. These are usually rare and are more unsightly than life threatening. Aphids can be controlled with a pesticide (Pyrethrum or other botanical is fine) and Spider Mites are easily eliminated with water sprayed on the leaves and crown. Usually a week of regular spraying is sufficient. Thrips can cause some blooms to be misshapen but are relatively rare and not very persistent.
Diseases: Some daylilies are susceptible to leaf streak, a minor leaf disease that causes a little more yellowing on the leaf than you would normally expect. However, some ordinary leaf streak is found on virtually all daylilies. Keeping daylilies well watered and fertilized will minimize any negative appearance of leaf streak.
Examples of leaf streak: Leaf Streak Information
A new disease has appeared on daylilies, known as rust. It is unsightly but will not kill a daylily. There is some evidence that cold New England winters will kill the rust. We do not have rust here at Olallie, and no rust has been reported in Vermont as of this writing. For more information on rust go to
Can I plant my Daylilies with other plants?
Daylilies are good competitors and will grow well with other perennials without being over whelmed. Keep in mind though that many daylilies can grow to be quite large clumps and can crowd out smaller less tenacious plants.
Are Daylilies good for planting in locations where nothing else will grow?
Mostly Yes. But remember these are plants not super plants! Daylilies are very salt tolerant and so will grow well near the seashore or on the roadside of salted roads. Daylilies also will tolerate very wet conditions and are also considered to be excellent drought resistant plants. Being that they die down to the ground each winter they will grow where woody plants would be damaged by ice or snow removal.
DON'T expect daylilies to grow: Under the deep shade of pine trees, in a desert of sand, in a swamp which has standing water most of the year, in the trunk of your car or anywhere it is pretty much impossible to grow a plant.
Can Daylilies be invasive?
There is one somewhat invasive daylily. Below is a comment from a customer.
Q:"A few years ago, I bought a house that had nice borders of daylilies planted in the back yard. Since my arrival,
they have aggressively spread everywhere--the neighbor's yard, between patio stones, into my vegetable patch, you name it. I've tried digging them up but they just keep coming. Any ideas on how to control this invasion?"
A: What you describe as an invasive daylily could only be the "Roadside Orange" daylily, a species named Hemerocallis fulva. It has a spreading stoloniferous habit that makes it so ubiquitous. Any running root left with a crown has the potential to grow a new plant. All other daylilies have a clumping habit and do not travel. As for removal, digging them up is one way, but it means work. We are organic growers and do not use herbicide, but a systemic spray like Round-up would probably do the trick. If you want to keep some of them (like in the borders you had) use barriers in the ground that would prevent spreading out into others areas. We think they belong away from the garden, better for along the road. They are well suited to erosion control.